The FRESH WATER 1000 system has a single multi-technology cartridge contained within a single housing. The FRESH WATER 2000 gives additional performance and a longer cartridge life. It comprises two stainless steel housings and two unique cartridges.

It is important that anyone installing a FRESH WATER system takes time to study this guide as it contains essential Information needed to ensure easy installation and trouble-free use.

Follow the Instructions and, after installation, your system will produce purified water for drinking and preparing food at the touch of the special tap.

Keep the guide in a safe place. It will enable you to get the best performance from your system now and in the future.

Section One : Principal components

Section Two : Installation

Section Three : Operating Instruction and maintenance

Section Four : General Information

SECTION ONE

PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS

(Fig 1 and 2)

The first component in the system is the line piercing valve (1) which is easily connected to the cold water supply line. (This is usually the supply leading to the cold water tap in the kitchen) The line piercing valve is connected by flexipipe FG (food grade) red tube (2) to the filter housing and headworks (3) which contains the cartridge (5). The blue flexipipe (6) is connected to the long reach fountain tap (4).

The FRESH WATER 1000 comprises one cartridge in one housing. The FRESH WATER 2000 has two housings, the first of which contains the Type A cartridge (7). The second housing contains the Type B cartridge (8).

HOW THE COMPONENTS FUNCTION

1: Line piercing valve unit

The line piercing valve unit (Fig 3) consists of a line piercing valve together with an integral non-return check valve. The unit is suitable for direct installation on to standard copper cold water supply pipes from 3/8” inch to 5/8” inch diameter. To install, clamp the unit around the cold water line and turn the valve handle. This causes a needle to pierce the cold water line and allows water to flow through the flexipipe tube to the filter. The valve can be used to control the water flow rate and can be used to isolate the filter. The non-return valve ensures that the direction of water flow is always towards the filter, in accordance with regulations designed to eliminate ‘back-syphoning’ , an undesirable process in which filtered material collected from the mains water by the filter is released back into the water supply.

2: Filter housing and cartridges

The FRESH WATER 1000 cartridge (Fig 4) is a multi-stage water treatment unit in which the water enters the housing and percolates from the outside into the cartridge through the porous ceramic. The first stage of treatment is microfiltration through the ceramic membrane. This cleanses the water of suspended particles. Because of its superfine filtration characteristics - the porous ceramic is too small for bacteria to penetrate - it also performs a further essential function. It actually disinfects the water by filtering out at least 99.99% of any bacteria that might have entered the water supply from the mains. The water flows through the porous ceramic cartridge and then passes through a number of special water treatment media which serve to improve the taste and act against a whole range of micropollutants. The stainless steel filter housing (the container for the cartridge) comprises a housing which can be unscrewed from the headworks. (The headworks incorporate water inlet and outlet connectors) The housing is rendered watertight by the housing seal (Fig 5) a circular ‘O’ ring washer which fits around the housing just below the threaded section.

A word of caution - be careful with the screw thread sections in the stainless steel housing. They can be razor sharp. Never run your fingers over any sharp edge. Remember stainless steel is used for sharp surgical instruments.

To seal the FRESH WATER cartridges into the headworks within the stainless steel housing., the upper spigot of the cartridge pushes against the internal sealing ring. THIS SEAL IS ESSENTIAL TO THE CORRECT WORKING OF THE FILTER. Develop the habit of checking that it is in place before you screw on the housing when you clean or change the cartridge.

Also in the headworks you will see the speedfit connectors. The Diagram (Fig 6) shows how these work, you will see that it is very simple to just push fit the tube into the connectors but be assured that this joint can withstand many times the pressure of normal water supplies.

The FRESH WATER 1000 system uses a single housing and a single cartridge.

The FRESH WATER 2000 system which gives additional performance and longer cartridge life, comprises two stainless steel housings and two different types of cartridge (Fig 7) Water flows through the first and then through the second. Filter cartridge Type A is similar to the cartridge in the FRESH WATER 1000. It consists of a first stage ceramic membrane together with a series of inner granular-form water treatment media. Filter cartridge Type B contains a further series of different media and is designed to operate only in conjunction with cartridge Type A to further remove water pollutants.

3: Filter tap

The special Fresh Water Filter® system tap can be operated in one of two ways. Push the lever down and the water will flow. Take your hand off and the flow ceases. But if you want a continuous flow of water, just put your finger on the underside of the lever and lift the lever up so that is rests against the spout of the tap. To stop the continuous flow, return the lever to the normal position.

SECTION TWO

Installation

Before installation read these Instructions carefully, then familarise yourself with the components, determine where you are going to install your system and plan the installation.

First, locate the MAINS WATER STOPCOCK.

Then remember your principle objectives. They are to do a tidy job, to install the unit so that it is located in such a way that you have easy access to it (for cartridge cleaning) and to ensure that your installaton is completely free from leaks.

The best tip is don’t rush. Perform each task in sequence. Also make certain that you have all of the tools you need before you start!

Warning : This equipment should not be installed or serviced by children who must be prevented from doing so.

Step One

1 : Unpacking

Handle with care and familiarise yourself with the various components after checking thay have all been provided. ( Refer to the components lists included at the end of this publication).

Step Two

2 : Drilling the sink

Warning : If the sink is porcelain or a similar vitreous material, do not attempt to drill unless you have sufficient technical ability and equipment.

2.1 : Vitreous enamelled or porcelain clad cast iron sinks

First select the desired tap position on a flat part of the sink or draining board. To allow the tap to pour into the sink, it should be located no more than 100mm (4 inches) from the corner of the sink bowl. Examine the underside of the sink at that point to ensure that you can get to it in order to connect the tubing to the underside of the tap assembly. Remember - you will need to be able to get at the underside of the sink at this point with your hands and have sufficient room to turn a spanner.

Before starting to drill the hole, stick a small piece of insulating tape over the area of vitreous enamel or pocelain clad surface that you wish to drill. The tape will prevent the drill bit from ‘walking’.

Using carbide drill bits, commence drilling in the middle of the tape, first using a 3.125mm (1/8 inch) drill bit to make a pilot hole.

After drilling the pilot hole, make it progressively larger, using in turn 6.25mm (1/4 inch), 9.375mm (3/8 inch), and finally 12.5mm (1/2 inch) drill bits.

By adopting this step - by - step approach, using a sequence of four bit sizes, the drill will be prevented from ‘grabbing’ when it breaks through the surface. This will avoid the risk of damaging the sink, the drill, and the person using it.

As an additional precaution it is also prudent to reduce pressure on the drill immediately prior to breakthrough. Failure to do so may result in causing considerable damage to the sink, particularly if the sink is vitreous.

2.2 : Stainless steel sinks

Drill a 12.5mm (0.5 inch) hole in the desired position using a high speed drill bit. Note the comments in the section about first piercing the sink surface in the position you wish to drill.

2.3 : Formica top

Drill a 12.5mm (0.5 inch ) hole either using a carpenter’s drill or a high speed drill bit.

2.4 : Existing hole

If a standard 37mm (1.5 inch ) hole is available it may be used. Use the large chrome plated washer

( supplied with the system ) above the sink and the matching sized washer on the underside.

Step Three

3 : Mounting the tap

Place the threaded portion of the tap stem through the drilled hole so that the lever is in a convenient position for easy access when you want to turn the tap on.

Assemble in accordance with the Diagram. Secure in place with the nuts and washers provided. (Note:

a steel washer is not provided, nor is one required). You may wish to use a spanner on the flats of the tap to hold it in the desired position. If this is the case, be sure to place a thick cloth between the jaws of the spanner to avoid marking the chrome finish. The Diagram shows a plastic ( Delrin ) or brass ferrule and both are included in the kit. You need only use one and we suggest the plastic. Keep the brass as a spare.

Using the length of blue tibe provided, place the compression nut and then the ferrule over the tube, and - very carefully - fully tighten all the compression fittings.

Please note that the small seal on the 3/8 inch adaptor is very important. The long reach swivel outlet tube of the tap should be pushed down and then screwed into the tap body after first removing the small section of plastic tube fitted to prevent the tap lever from becoming dislodged prior to mounting.

The water outlet pipe should swivel freely to any required position. Do not screw it in too tightly - the thread is simply there to stop the outlet arm from popping out at high water pressure.